Not long ago, my sister-in-law Sharon showed up on my doorstep with a shoebox filled with strange artifacts. She explained that this odd little collection was all that remained of her great-grandparents' general store, which had been boarded up and razed more than three decades ago. There were photos, coins, keys, and a small hodgepodge of utensils that Sharon said came from the sandwich counter that was a mainstay of the store.
It was these last items in particular that Sharon wanted me to look at. You see, she had already decided how to display the finer items, like the coins and photos. But these utensils seemed to her to be more tool-like, and not really suited to a fancy frame or shadow box. But they deserved something more than the shoebox, too. And while these weren't necessarily the kind of tools she knows me to be familiar with, she wondered if I might have some idea how to display them so that they seemed more functional than decorative.
The solution actually came from one of the old photos in the box. In one of them, Sharon's grandmother can be seen holding a simple serving tray topped with what I imagined to be a customer's lunch of soup, sandwich, and coffee.
That tray would be an ideal display case for the antique utensils, so I set out to build, as nearly as I could, a replica of the tray. I don't suppose that what I came with is an exact copy, but I’d call it a fair representation.
The real trick was trying to imagine how the tray would look today, all these years after that photo was taken. I would need to age, or "distress" the tray to make it appear as though it had came from the same place and time as the utensils. And that, as it turned out, was the most rewarding part of this simple little project. And I'll explain the techniques I used to do that just as soon as we get through the steps for building it.
Construct the Tray
First, rip the two sides to width (2½") on your table saw. Then cut them to length (16½") by beveling each end. I prefer to make bevel cuts like these on a miter saw. And these particular pieces offered the perfect opportunity to use my Skil model 3800-01 with its two-beam laser cut line indicator. Honestly, I’m not sure how I ever managed to line up bevel cuts before I got this saw!
To make this cut, set the bevel angle of your saw to 45° and cut one end of the board. Then rotate the board 180° and make the finishing cut. Repeat this process to make the other tray side, then set these pieces aside for a moment while you turn your attention to the tray ends.
Make these pieces using the same steps you used for the tray sides. But take note that these pieces are wider (3½") and shorter (11½") than the tray sides.
Now that your four tray pieces are cut to size, you need to cut a ¼" groove in each piece to hold the tray bottom in place. You've got a couple choices for cutting this feature. One is to mount a dado blade in your table saw and cut the groove that way. Or, if you're not equipped for that, you can always use a router and a straight bit.
From here, there are just a couple more details you need to add to the tray ends before you can assemble the whole works. The first of those details is the handholds. Make these by drilling two 1"-diameter holes (see the plan for locations) and then cutting between them with a jig saw.
When you’re finished with the handholds, you can cut the tray ends to their final shape. This is another good job for your jigsaw since this isn’t a typical “straight” cut.
The final tray piece you need to make is the plywood bottom. To get the best possible fit, dry assemble the tray sides and ends. Clamp them temporarily so you’ll have both hands free to measure between the tray pieces. Remember that to account for the depth of the grooves (3/8") you’ll need to add ¾" (3/8" times 2) to come up with the final dimension. Now cut the plywood bottom to size and test its fit in the tray.
Once you’re satisfied with the way the tray pieces fit together, you can assemble it for keeps. Use a good wood glue at the beveled corners and then drive three or four brad nails in each corner for extra holding power.
Distress the Tray
This is the part of the project that I really enjoyed — aging the tray. This isn’t an exact science, so don’t worry that your distressing technique isn’t just perfect. The goal is simply to make the piece look as though it’s been well used.
The tools for this process are limited only by your imagination, but a sharp chisel, a belt sander, and a file are a good place to start.
The first thing you’ll want to do is remove all the sharp corners. Thirty years of being lifted, stacked, moved, and dropped is sure to knock all the edges off. Your belt sander will make quick work of that.
Now add some deeper gouges using your chisel. I imagined that the top edges of the tray sides would get pretty beat up over time with all the items that collided with them on their way in and out of the tray.
Next up, add some wear to the handholds. Try to visualize how this tray would have been carried and how frequent use would have thinned and shaped the wood in this area. This is where you’ll need that file.
You’ll also want to add a few of what I call “character marks.” These are just random nicks and scratches that are bound to happen to a piece like this.
After you’ve sufficiently distressed the tray, you’ll want to add a paint job that looks just as old. There’s no easier distressed finished than crackle paint. The stuff I used came in two aerosol cans and took just a few hours to apply. The secret to these faux finishes, though, is to remember that less is more. Follow the instructions to create a “light” crackle effect. You want the tray to look old without looking like it’s trying to look old.
Display the Tray
Arranging the items inside a shadow box is very much a personal thing, and since no two shadow boxes will contain exactly the same items, you’ll have to rely on your own judgment to place each item. Be sure to try several arrangements before securing the items for good.
When you are ready to mount the items, one simple way is to drill small holes in the plywood bottom of the tray and use fishing line to tie each item in. Locate the holes as inconspicuously as possible, either under the item or very close to the side of it, so they won’t be visible. Then use some lightweight fishing line (if you don’t know fishing line, look for 6-pound monofilament) to loop over each item, feed it through the holes you drilled, and then tie it securely on the underside of the tray.
Finally, you’re distressed display tray is ready for the wall. I used a bit of picture hanging wire and some eyebolts to build a hanger into the back of my tray. You can buy kits for this very purpose at most hardware stores and home centers.
The tray now has a place of honor in Sharon’s dining room, where it matches her nostalgic décor and serves as a great conversation piece. More importantly, though, at least to me, is that the tray looks as though it could come off the wall and be put back in service anytime.